As an avid people-watcher, one of the things I’m enjoying about this hotel is that there is wifi only in the huge lobby area of this hotel with lots of comfy armchairs. And as we’re all now connected to our phones and computers like placenta cords, it’s a great place to do my people-watching. When we first arrived here earlier in the week, there were hardly any other guests.

But yesterday was a huge influx. Lots of Jewish families. That surprised me as this hotel is in the Muslim part of Jerusalem. They had their Sabbath meal last night in a separate dining room to the rest of us Christians, Muslims and anyone else. Lots of singing during their Sabbath meal. I would have loved to have gate-crashed it, but I do recognise some boundaries!

Lots of people from other cultures booked in too. Lots of different, both colourful and plain dress, lots of children who all stay up late, lots of different languages. There’s a young man dressed in white with a Jewish skull cap with a gun in a holster on his hip who’s been very busy praying in the lobby. By the way, I would love to know how really bald Jewish men keep their skull caps on!

This morning I was feeling weary. Not physically weary. But on sensory overload. So we’ve had a shorter day. I’ve found over the years, I need recharge time regularly.

It’s also the Jewish Sabbath today so not a lot of Jewish attractions open anyway. We walked down the steep hill into the Old City again this morning. I’d heard about a walk you could do along the city wall ramparts.

We found a sign but no way to get onto it. Until I found a gap in the metal fence and squeezed through. Philip wouldn’t follow. He thought we’d get thrown out of the Old City if we were discovered. So I followed the narrow path along the city wall as far as I could. Until there was a locked gate I couldn’t get past. There wasn’t much of interest to see really. Over the city wall was just a busy street with cars whizzing and honking. The side I was walking on was just overlooking Muslim backyards and children’s play areas. But no-one much about. So I had to turn round and go back again. But we found out later there is another proper tourist wall ramparts walk that you pay for and it’s probably more interesting. But at least I could say I’ve done it.

We walked through noisy, crowded and busy bazaars, selling all sorts of food and tourist junk. None of which we bought.

Then we found on the map a reference to Zedekiah’s cave. That sounded intriguing. So, with a bit of help, because navigating in the Old City can sometimes be a challenge, we found it.

After paying a small entrance fee (made even smaller because they allowed for Australian seniors which we are), we found ourselves in a dimly lit, downward sloping huge, huge cavern. And quiet. Blissfully calm. We were the only ones there and all that could be heard was the slow drip of water as it seeped and dropped from the roof to the floor of the cave. It reminded me of Lord of the Rings or Hobbit landscapes when they’re underground. It runs under the Old City for 230 metres and it’s full height can’t really be seen because of landfills. The stonemasons left huge rock pillars to shore up the ceilings. Right at the very end you can see where they’ve quarried the huge blocks of stone. We marvelled at the sheer craftsmanship that it took to quarry the straight cuts in the huge blocks of stone.

There’s lots of oral tales of this quarry being used for Solomon’s temple. And it might have been. The evidence shows that it was used for Herod’s Temple – the temple that was there when Jesus walked this earth. We really enjoyed exploring it. Fascinating and quiet!

While navigating our way back to the hotel, we found ourselves unexpectedly at the Western Wall. A big open space where Jews come to pray at the Western Wall. A very moving sight. You can feel their great desire and spiritual longing.

One of my thoughts is that it’s the Christian Arabs who seem to have it hardest in this divided land. Both the Jews and the Muslims have other people and countries behind them. But there’s no-one for the Christian Arabs. Not that I can see anyway.

Walking back up the very steep narrow Mount of Olives Road, we came across hundreds of Africans, mainly dressed in white. Some with blue crosses on their long white tunics. Others with green sashes and pictures of Mary with an infant Jesus on their chests. Some with cloth crowns on their heads. Singing and banging drums. Some singing into microphones with other people hauling big loudspeakers on their shoulders as they walked along. We got caught in a big crowd of them on the tight, narrow road. They are from Eritrea. Maybe they’re Eritrean Orthodox Christians. I wouldn’t be surprised if they were a group of a thousand there.  They certainly know how to celebrate!